Hi everyone, Nordoc here.
To celebrate the new year 2018, I threw a little vote on my Facebook page. In short, I had just gotten my hands on 7 gorgeous models from Creature Caster, where I wanted to do a tutorial on one of them, as it has been a while. However, I wanted you guys to do the deciding on which it should be – And boy oh boy did you deliver. A grand total of 91 votes came in and you chose the Lady of Depravity, with a majority of 26 votes on that model alone.
So without further ado, let’s get into it!
Step 1: Assembly, priming and the start of the white skin
After assembling almost the whole miniature (which by the way was much easier than feared) I glued it all together, except for on the base itself. The reason for this, as I normally assemble the entire miniature from the get-go, is that I wanted easier access to the base and the stones on it.
After having left it for 24 hours to cure (Yes, always do that when working with resin. I kid you not, it might seem dry after 15 minutes, but leave it for 24 hours. You will thank me later) I got started on the skin. My thoughts where that I wanted a look that was almost devoid of colour, with only the effects on the blood and swords to have focus. On models as detailed as this one, it can easily drown out in details and I usually go for a minimalistic approach to the colour scheme.
Well, that and a slight inspiration from the Hellraiser franchise. I want it to look scary, threatening and something truly worthy of the fear, that is at the heart of every mortal crossing this daemonettes path.
I started out with a 45 degree highlight with Vallejo Air Medium Sea Grey where I focused on the face, the …. chest and the buttocks. (When working with whites and greys, I always recommend using some kind of flow improver, as otherwise it can come out a bit too powdery)
After this stage, I hit both sides with a 90 degree pure white highlight. At this stage, rather go a bit too bright, than too dark, as we will be bringing it down again afterwards.
Now the model is ready for it’s oil wash to bring it a bit down, before we continue on.
Step 2: Oil wash and final white highlights
The next stage is to bring some wash to the model, but we’re going to do it with oils instead of the typical version. If you haven’t done this before, worry not, as it’s much easier than it sounds.
The first step is to completely coat the models with a gloss varnish. It’s important that it’s gloss, as it gives the model protection and it makes the wash seep into the cracks much more than GW washes, for example.
After that, you take a black oil paint (you can get this at a typical art supply store, just be sure it’s a oil paint and not acrylic) and thin it down with white spirits. Thin it until there’s no chunks left in the resolution and it has the same consistency as you’re used to with a wash.
Now, take an old brush (as it will ruin your brush) and go at it:
Leave it to dry for about 30 minutes or so.
After you have done this, you can take a cuetip, make it a bit moist with white spirits and “wash” off the excess on surfaces that you don’t like. This gives it a very smooth finish, and you avoid the pooling that you normally get with washes, so you don’t have to re-do the surfaces afterwards with another colour.
After you have done the cuetip part, varnish the model again – Personally, I use Satin varnish for the last part.
As a last part, after the varnish has dried, give it a slight drybrush with a pure white – Just to catch those edges and make it super crisp.
And that’s it for the skin. We now have a slightly marble/stone’ish look on the skin with good greys and whites. The next part? Making the white pop via other details on the miniature – The next parts is where it really gets to shine!
Step 3: Glossy chitin, horns and swords
Right, time to add some popping. First order of business is the glossy chitin and the horns on the side of her face.
First, the horns. Hit them roughly 66% of the way down with Vallejo Model Air Hull Red, followed by a Gloss Black 33% of the way down, leaving just enough red to show.
While you’ve loaded the brush with glossy black, do all of the black areas on the model. You can use my picture below for reference, as it can feel a bit like you’re ondoing your entire work, as roughly half of what you hit before is going to be painted over – Just trust me, it will be worth it.
Already now you can see a big change in the overall tone of the model. The first non-black/white color makes a huge difference, and the later details will do the same.
Next up, we will be using Vallejo Model Air Metallic Steel for two things; painting the swords (with a brush, as it covers in one coat straight out of the pot) and as a very discreet (as in extremely..) drybrush on the black chiting, just to define those edges and give it a even more shiny glow.
We’re going to give the swords 2 washes. First we do a Nuln Oil (you can do either normal or gloss, I just went with normal) followed by a Seraphim Serpia.
In regards to the Seraphim Serpia, try to do it more in blotches than a normal wash. You want it to be inconsistent, to give it a more weathered and destructive look. Let it pool!
And that’s it for the swords, chitin and horns. If you want your model to be clean and non-bloody (it’s not for everyone after all) you just need to do the base now and it’s ready to go!
If you want to go full throttle horror though, the next step is for you.
Step 4: Blood and gore
Right, personally this is one of my favorite parts of painting these little guys. It’s a 3 step process that will take it from clean, to “Oh my god, kill it with fire!”.
The first stage is Reikland Fleshshade, where you will be “painting” the outline of where your blood is going to go. I put it on the mouth, the neck, the chest’s and the swords.
Be aware that depending on the colour of the model, you might need two coats here to get it defined enough.
Next up, you need to make the first of two blood mixes. Do a mix of the following two colours: Vallejo Smoke / GW Evil Sun Scarlett 7:3 ratio. Then it down with water untill it has roughly the same consistency as skimmed milk, so just a tad more thick than a wash.
Paint roughly 90% of the area you covered with the Reikland Fleshshade wash. After you done this, grab a old toothbrush / drybrush. Put a bit of the mix on the brush and flick the brush against your thumb, making a slight splatter on the face, chest and neck.
(Practice the above flicker stage on other models first, just so you get the feel for how much should loaded on the brush.)
Now for the final touch. You need to make another blood mix, this time consisting of the following colours:
Gloss black, Reikland Flesshade (gloss) and Blood for The Blood God in roughly 1:2:3 ratio.
It’s going to seem more brown than red, and that’s ok. Use this mix to gove over orughly 80% of the area that you covered with the first blood mix and don’t be afraid to get a bit thick – It will just add character to the model and make it seem like thick blood sticking to the model.
Heck, you can even do the splatter trick again, if you feel like it.
Step 5: The base
The base can be done however you wish. I’ve not documented mine per say, but I can give the recipe for what I’ve done, in case you want to duplicate it.
Start off with airbrushing all of it with a pure white, making it a grey style of base. After that, drybrush the entire thing with a pure white, to catch the edges.
Grab a hold of Vallejo Model Air Dark Earth and airbrush the dark areas – Holes under rocks, places beneath edges and overall where there might be earth on the base. Follow that stage with a Black and Vallejo Model Air Cam. Black Brown in a 1:1 ratio, and darken those areas down even further.
End it all of by painting the trim of the base in pure black.
I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial and found it helpful in achieving a dark and gory look for your miniature. This theme can easily be applied to smaller models as well, and will fit perfectly with any Slaanesh themed models.
Don’t believe me? Have a look.
Until next time,